Saturday, July 30, 2011

A Case of Mistaken Identity: Part 3



Click image to enlarge

I was sifting through some old documents on my computer and ran across this letter. At first I thought that I was the butt of a joke...that one of my friends was trying to "get my goat", but my curiosity was piqued, so I decided to reply and see what happened. Several weeks later I received a very apologetic letter with 2 free passes to the Jack Daniel's distillery in Lynchburg, Tennessee.

So...if I ever completely run out of things to do, I'll always have the whiskey and the fainting goats of Tennessee to fall back on.


To read my blogs about other cases of mistaken identity, click the following links:

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Audio Assault

Seam Reap, Cambodia:



I was awakened at 6 o'clock this morning by the most god-awful wailing, banging, clanging, screeching, blaring cacophony emanating from the loud-speakers at a nearby temple, and it continued unabated until I left the guest house at 9:30 a.m. When I returned at 3 p.m. it was still going, as was the case when I came back at 7 p.m.

Audio Assault (mp3)

Apparently someone who lives in the neighborhood died last night, and the Buddhist priests have determined that the most auspicious date for his burial is about 4 days from now, so I'll get to enjoy this audio mayhem for another 72 hours.



Imagine an interminable, ear-splitting, mind-numbing, nausea-inducing extended soundtrack straight from the studios of hell. Or a fight between a tom cat and a bag pipe, combined with the sound a two year old in the throes of a temper tantrum maniacally banging a cowbell while a tone deaf woman screeches at the top of her lungs. 

Now turn the volume up to 11 and you'll have some idea of what I have to look forward to. I figure it's a good reason to get up early and get out and get on with my day. Otherwise I'd have to move across town to escape the noise...it's that pervasive.

Apparently there's a cease-fire between 10 p.m. and 6 a.m. How it is that the local folks don't seem to mind is beyond my comprehension. Seriously...I’d sign up for water-boarding before this particular type of torture. At least with water-boarding there would be the possibility that it would put me out of my misery.

Why this hasn't been used as a method of torture is curious to me. I would surrender and tell the enemy all my passwords if subjected to this. But instead I'm paying by the day to listen to it...complimentary breakfast included.

Footnote: For additional funereal fun, read my post entitled "A Grave Situation"

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Riding Through Cambodia

rural roads

rising sun

buddhist temple

clanging gong

a nun with shaven head

clad in white

wearing the expression of the sphinx



brown-skinned school children

sleepy-eyed

big smiles

bare feet

bicycles too big

what do they dream of

besides enough to eat?



radios blaring

people call "hello" from their doorstep

or stand and stare

as water buffalo graze

geese honk

roosters crow

and scooters growl



women on their way

to market

faces swathed in scarves

mask them from

the ever present dust and sun

look over their shoulders

smiling shyly with their eyes



muddy puddles

from last night's rain

motorcycles bearing impossible loads

children with no clothes

grandmothers with no teeth

whose eyes have seen

unspeakable tragedy


Thursday, July 14, 2011

Blown Away


I just renewed my visa to stay in Cambodia for another month.

Why? Because I've just been given the most amazing opportunity. After volunteering for a couple of weeks at Anjali House, an organization that works with street kids, I've been asked to mentor two up-and-coming photographers who are part of their young adult program.

Why me? I keep asking myself the same question.

Here's the story: These two talented photographers have been invited to photo-document the work being done by Halo Trust, an organization which has been removing land mines and unexploded bombs here in Cambodia for 20 years. Specifically, they've been asked to capture images of life in the villages where land mines have been cleared.

I keep pinching myself to make sure I'm awake, because the gig is perfect on so many levels:

1. It supports at least three causes I'm passionate about: photography, education and clearing land mines. I can't imagine what a relief it must be for folks who have lived in daily terror for years to feel safe for the first time about cultivating their land and letting their kids go outside to play without having to worry about whether they'll come home in pieces.

2. I'll get to share some of my experience with other photographers who are eager and enthusiastic. And I'll learn a lot more about the "real' Cambodia and hopefully enlarge my 8 word Khmer vocabulary.

3. I'll have the opportunity to see parts of the country I wouldn't get to to otherwise. We'll have several overnight stays, so I'll see life in villages that are unadulterated by tourism, taste local food that hasn't been "westernized", and immerse myself in truly authentic local culture.

The photos will be shown in a big exhibition which will take place in November, and will also hang on the walls in the offices of Halo Trust and be used in their development efforts.

Beyond my wildest dreams, the director of Anjali House has managed to procure to a couple of Macbook Pro laptop computers with Photoshop installed, as well as a couple of zoom lenses, so we ought to be pretty well-equipped for our expedition.

Oh...I forgot to mention...it's the rainy season.

Saturday, July 2, 2011

The School of Hard Knocks

Siem Reap, Cambodia:

My growling stomach reminded me I hadn't eaten dinner. I walked about 10 minutes from my guest house to a sidewalk restaurant that stays open late and ordered a plate of fried rice with pork, a bottle of water and an Angkor beer. A healthy meal that includes all your major food groups for $2.50.

Music was blaring from the bar across the street, and vendors from the various food stalls called out to passersby as tuk-tuk drivers solicited tourists with offers of transportation or drugs or sex...or all three. And there were dozens of street kids, many of them carrying sleeping babies on their hips, approaching travelers like me and asking for money.


Right about then I felt a thud underneath my table, and as I looked down I came face to filthy face with a kid who was foraging for bottle caps. His clothes looked like he'd been working in a coal mine. He consolidated his collection of caps into one fist, put on a pitiful face worthy of an Academy Award, and held out his empty, grubby palm.


I couldn't do it.

I couldn't turn him away like I've done with dozens of other kids in 8 different countries over the past several months. I told him to pull up a chair. He ordered the largest item on the menu, which would have fed a ravenous lumberjack...but the waitress told him he could have a chicken thigh and drumstick. When it arrived, he attacked his plate with the fervor of someone who's just been rescued from a desert island.

His name is Nam Chan and he's six years old. It was close to midnight.

Nam Chan's meal was bigger than his head. He ate what he could, and got a take-out box for the rest, and went on his way. As I walked back to my guesthouse to the accompaniment of "You want tuk tuk? You want motorcycle? You want marijuana? You want massage? You want lady?", I saw Nam Chan in front of a convenience store. He came running up to me, jumped into my arms and said "You buy me milk!?"

The needs of the children in this country would fill a bottomless pit.

I've seen just a glimpse of the "before" and "after" version of these kids. I've spent the last couple of weeks volunteering at Anjali House, an organization which provides education, meals and a healthy environment to kids who would otherwise be roaming the city streets 'til the wee hours, going from bar to restaurant to bar selling souvenirs and flowers to drunk tourists.




Some of the kids ride to and from Anjali House in a tuk tuk, which is not exactly like the bus you rode as a kid. To find out more about the work being done here, and what you can do to help keep these kids off the street, visit www.anjali-house.com